Today, the third part of my six-part series this year on unusual proteins was published in the San Diego Union-Tribune's food section. Enjoying the Whole Fish looks at how home cooks can go beyond the filet or steak and create dishes that feature the entire fish. Cook it whole or learn how to break it down and cook the parts.

Thank you to Chef Andrew Spurgin, who taught me how to make his classic salt-encrusted fish, and to Tommy Gomes of Catalina Offshore Products, who spent time with me demonstrating how to break down a gorgeous farm-raised hiramasu.

Chef Andrew Spurgin preparing snapper (photo by Eduardo Conteras)